3 Days in Lisbon: Trams, Graffiti and Custard Tarts

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. For every purchase made through one of these links, I receive a small commission, at no extra cost to you. Thank you!

Lisbon is a tiny colour explosion of a city. Daubed in sunny yellows everywhere you look and boasting the most sunshine hours of any capital in Europe, Lisbon never fails to bring a smile to your face.

It has a unique flavour, characterised by those iconic yellow trams rattling up and down the steep hills and narrow bends. Colourful azulejos-tiled houses, even more colourful street art and the most delicious custard tarts you will ever eat. All this means Lisbon should be right at the top of your city break bucket list!

*Note: This itinerary is ideally suited to accomodation in the city centre, close to Rua Augusta Arch and Praca do Comercio.

Looking for somewhere to stay in Lisbon – check out booking.com

Day 1: Belem & Lisbon Centre

AM: Praca do Comercio & Belem

Praca do Comercio

Walk through the beautifully ornate Rua Augusta Arch and onto Praca do Comercio. This is a fantastic square to admire both first thing in the morning when it’s quiet and on a Saturday evening when street performers and crowds add vibrance and energy.

Hit it around 8am to take in the colourful square without the crowds and enjoy a peaceful first moment in Lisbon.

Walk across the square and take a gulp of salty air in your lungs as you find the river Tagus laid out before you. Get your first glimpse of the Pont 25 de Abril – a double for the golden gate in San Francisco!

Take a moment to enjoy the quiet moment as the city awakens and listen to the seagulls cry.

Belem – Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

Belem is a neighbourhood on the outskirts of Lisbon and full of incredible monuments and museums.

• Head back across the square and catch the 15e tram to Belem (tram stop closest to the Arch). Cost: €3,00 one way (bought on-board)

• Get off at the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos stop (after Belem!)

Wander the shaded cloisters of the monastery and enjoy the ornate architecture and the hushed atmosphere it creates (even with other people around). Of all the things to do in Lisbon this is probably the most relaxing and soothing.

Top tip: The queues get very long for the monastery so ideally get there before it opens at 10. Also the queues can be confusing and I saw people get caught out! Head to the entrance flanked with flags first and join the queue on the right for the cloisters. You then take your ticket back outside again and join the less well signed queue to actually go in! (Further along the walls back towards the tram stop). Don’t queue there first without a ticket because they will turn you away!

• Cost: €10,00

Pasteis de Belem

This is the reason to go to Belem on your first day in Lisbon – to visit the home of the incredible pastel de nata! (The aforementioned custard tarts). Though you can get delicious ones all over Lisbon you have to get your first taste here!

You have two choices: eat in or takeaway. There’s pros and cons for both. If you eat in you get the full experience and the chance to really savour the moment. You can also see the vast labyrinth that is Pasteis de Belem – it has 400 tables! Fame has a price and it’s so busy that the final room is canteen-like and noisy. You could enjoy a takeaway tart and sit in the sun instead. My verdict is that you can eat pastel de nata on the go a million times over in Lisbon (I would like to try) so I say eat in!

Oh, and, they’re incredible no matter where you eat them! Savour that first bite- it will definitely make you say mmm!

Padrao dos Descobrimentos

Head through the gardens to the waterfront where you’ll find The Monument to the Discoveries. This is a dramatic monument dedicated to Portugal’s explorers. It looms over the waters edge as though the explorers are poised for another voyage!

You can go up to the top and see the floor map of all the discoveries, but if you decide you’re tired of queuing it is suitably impressive from the outside!

• Cost to go in: €6,00

Torre de Belem

An iconic sight of Lisbon, this UNESCO protected tower is another symbol of Portugal’s age of discovery.

• Stroll along the riverfront to find it
• If you get there late the queue will be huge so it’s probably not worth going inside unless you’re really keen!
• Cost to go in: €6,00

Both the tower and the discoveries monument are great for viewing from the outside and saving money/queue time! Whereas the monastery demands to be experienced in full.

Alternatively, if you preferred you could head to these sights first and take great photos/go inside without the crowds!

PM: Wanders in Baixa & Chiado

• Take the tram back to the centre of Lisbon (there are also buses you can hop on if they come before the tram does!) and get off at Cais do Sodre.

The ‘Pink Street’

Take one of the thin paths either side of Rua do Alecrim to find the ‘pink street’ which runs underneath. A river of pink and a street lined with bars greets you.

Miradouro de Santa Catarina

Wander up to Miradouro de Santa Catarina. Hailed as one of the best viewpoints in Lisbon this was sadly under construction when I visited. I believe there is no official date for when it will re-open so if you’re travelling soon (April 2019) bear this in mind when planning your trip! Hopefully this scenic spot will be enjoyed again soon!

Ascensor da Bica/Largo de Camoes

Snap the cute tram waiting at the top of Ascensor da Bica (on Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo) and continue on to Largo de Camoes, the square where three of Lisbon’s neighbourhood’s converge (Baixa, Chiado and Bairro Alto), a great place to people watch! On the way grab another amazing pastel de nata from Manteigaria and eat in the lively square.

Carmo Convent

This roofless convent is a a beautiful architectural piece hidden away in the centre of Lisbon. The gothic temple was seriously damaged in the earthquake of 1755 and re-construction was never completed, leaving the convent open to the elements. For me it seemed to be one of those places that you can see – but how do you get there? Hike up enough steps with one eye on google maps and you should find it okay.

Ascensor da Gloria/Rossio Square

Colourful street art galore as you head down Ascensor da Gloria. You can also take a look at Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara just above for more city views. And get a drink if you’re thirsty!

Rossio Square is a great place to end the day. Relax and take in the atmosphere.

Alternative Itinerary:

If you have 4 days in Lisbon or you skip the Sintra day trip I would suggest seperating this day into two. I.e have a longer day in Belem and round the day off with longer at Praca do Comercio (or stroll through the arch and around the flat central streets). Then take another whole day exploring in Baixa/Chiado and further on to Bairro Alto.

Day 2: Sintra Day Trip

Sintra is just 40 minutes from Lisbon by train. It features an array of beautiful hilltop palaces and gardens to explore. You could easily spend several days there but it also makes the perfect day trip from Lisbon. There are many places to explore but my top picks are: Palacio Nacional de Pena, Castelo dos Mouros and Quinta da Regaleira.

• Take the train from Rossio Station just off the square for €5,00 return
• Buy an all day hop on and off bus ticket for ease for €15,00 (It would be very difficult to walk to all the attractions) and pricey tuk tuk’s are the only other option. This ticket gives you access to many different bus routes.
• You can buy combined discounted tickets from the ticket office where you get the hop on bus tickets. Quinta has to be bought separately so get Pena and Castelo dos Mouros together. Cost: €20,90 (saving €1,10)

Buy tickets ahead of time here – Parques de Sintra – Monte da Lua

Sintra-Portugal.com has lots of information on Sintra!

Palacio Nacional da Pena

If you want colour, this fairytale palace is for you. The most famous of all the grand houses Pena gets extremely busy! Get there as early as possible!

I personally don’t think it’s worth going inside if there’s a huge queue. The problem was you don’t just queue to get in and then wander freely, you stay in a line as you walk through the palace, which makes my legs so restless! Plus it’s the outside that is so distinctive and unique. Walk the walls and admire the exteriors minus the queues!

After all the queues and crowds I definitely recommend a stroll through the lovely gardens.

• Cost: Full Ticket – Palace and Gardens €14,00
• Cost: Gardens and Palace Terraces: €7,50 – I recommend!
• Bus: 434

Castelo dos Mouros

It’s close enough to walk from Pena to these rugged castle ruins. The open, exposed and ruinous feel makes a nice contrast to the more refined palaces!

Top tip: It’s quite exposed and breezy in places so not ideal if you’re particularly afraid of heights! Also comfy shoes are a must! Don’t be put off though – If you walk from Pena it’s a very do-able distance, most shouldn’t find it challenging at all.

• Cost: €8,00

Quinta da Regaleira

The gardens are the main attraction here. Go down the mysterious Initiation Well and explore the network of tunnels beneath the gardens to find waterfalls, stepping stones and tunnels so low you have to watch your head!

• Catch the 434 bus to the historic centre and walk from there. (If you were doing a different itinerary you would take the 435 straight to the door, but in this case this is the logical route!)
• Cost: €8,00

Top tip: As you can see from all the photos, Sintra is high up in the hills so even if the weather is fine in Lisbon take an extra layer with you!

Historic Centre

Round off the day with a leisurely wander around the old streets.

Eat Cod tapas at Bacalhau na Villa. It’s up one of the hilly streets – the best restaurants always take a little searching!

Read my Ultimate Guide to Sintra for more information.

Day 3: Alfama – Chasing Trams & Views

Day 3 always means taking it easy. This day is all about wandering freely and looking for lovely views!

Wander Alfama & Catch a Sunrise

Get up early to wander quiet streets in the eerie half-light of dawn. In Lisbon you need to look for Miradouro’s (viewpoints!). They’re not always that well signed so some research beforehand does help (or just wander until you find one!)

Miradouro das Portas do Sol was a tricky one to find. Bear in mind that Alfama and google maps don’t mix! So if the map says you aren’t there but you’re standing in front of a gorgeous view, you probably are there! Sometimes it’s better to stumble across a beautiful view as I did with Miradouro Da Graca – my favourite! Probably because 1. It was unexpected and 2. Hardly anyone else was around! It is also very beautiful!

Alfama is also a great place to play chase the tram where you see a tram coming and hastily grab your phone and stab the camera button like mad! Taking pictures of stationary objects is much too dull. There’s just something so cute about the squat yellow trams trundling about the quaint, cobbled streets!

Castel de Sao Jorge

Head there as it opens and enjoy more splendid views over Lisbon. Say ola to the posing peacocks and have a quick wander round the castle. It’s mostly about the views though so it is questionable whether it’s worth paying to get in.

• Cost: €10,00

Miradouro da Senhora do Monte

The highest point so prepare for a steep walk! Also expect to share the views with lots of other people now!

This view is hailed as being the highest and the best but it just shows how much experience has a part to play. It was my least favourite Miradouro because by this time the crowds were heaving and it was a case of battling for pictures- not fun! So my best advice for Miradouro hunting is to go early and enjoy the quiet while you can!

Get lost in gorgeous Alfama as you walk downhill. Quaint and pretty, it was definitely my favourite area of Lisbon!

PM: Relax and re-trace your steps

Spend your final afternoon in Lisbon doing just as you please! Spend more time in your favourite places or explore new ones. It depends how tired out you are. Some suggestions include:

• Chill out in one of the lovely squares
• Get vain and do Instagram photo shoots on one of the many colourful streets (Ascensor da Bica was my choice)
• Stuff as many pastel de nata in as you can eat!
• Eat chocolate cake at Landeau Chocolate
• Head to Miradouro de Santa Catarina for the perfect sunset to end your trip

If I had more time in Lisbon…

• I would have headed up to Parque Eduardo VII.

• Had a longer day in Belem and visited the MAAT Museum and the LX Factory.

• Explored deeper into the other neighbourhoods like Bairro Alto

• Eaten more pastel de nata!!

The Lisboa Card

The Lisboa card offers discounts to major attractions and covers your travel for 1-3 days, however long you need. Bear in mind how much public transport you plan to use and how many museums and attractions you plan to go in. If you’re planning on walking everywhere around the city it’s probably not worth it!

Also remember that even if you plan to get one, plans can go awry. I asked for one at the airport and was told museums were free the next day so it might not be worth it!

My advice would be – if you can, map out your trip and work out how much public transport you plan to use and how many attractions you will pay to go in and measure it against the cost of the card.

Check out – Lisboacard.org for more information or to purchase one ahead of your trip (you can pick them up from the tourist information desk at the airport).

You can also get viva viagem cards from metro stations that you can top up for ease of travel.

Check out – Lisbonguru.com for more info on these!

For more city break itineraries check out:

3 Days in Barcelona

3 Days in Dubrovnik